India – Day 12: Jaipur – Amber Fort

We set off in our coach to the Amber Fort. On the way we stopped to take photos of the ‘Palace of the Winds’ and we saw some snake charmers.

Five stories high but only one room deep, it was built to allow ladies of the harem to watch the street scenes without being observed.
We passed the milk market where the quality of the milk can be felt by putting a hand in the milk!

At the Amber Fort we swapped our comfortable coach for jeeps to take us up to the fort. Many tourists make the trip by elephant.

The elephants only work for a short time, doing 3 or 4 trips only.
We were welcomed with colourful powder (gulal) as it is Holi (one of the most important Hindu festivals) today and tomorrow.
View from the fort
Back to the coach in our jeeps, we drove to a jewellery shop where stones are cut and polished. On the way we saw Jai Mahal, the water palace, which featured on Michael Portillo’s programme recently.
We then visited a textile factory where the cloth is hand printed. I bought a tablecloth.
We saw many stalls selling gulal ready for tonight.
We arrived back at the hotel for a well earned rest before setting off out again at 5pm. More of that later!

India – Day 11: Jaipur

We set off to Ranthambore National Park at 6.30am for our dawn safari. It was very cold to start with but soon warmed up. We saw antelope, crocodiles, lots of birds, wild boar and monkeys. The monkeys were shouting a warning and the guide thought a leopard must be near but we didn’t see one. We heard jackals.

Nilgai antelope
Rufus Treepies on our safari truck
Freshwater crocodile at the edge of the lake
White-throated kingfisher
A misty start to the day

Back at Sawai Vilas we had a late breakfast and then set off in our coach to Jaipur. We travelled for about 4 hours passing colourful towns and villages.

We arrived in Jaipur and had a look round the Pink City Palace and the Jantar Mantar Observatory.

A stone sun dial

We arrived at our hotel in time for drinks and dinner.

Tomorrow we will drive to the ancient capital of Amber to see the fabulous Amber Fort.

India – Day 10: Tigers!

We had a relaxing morning, swimming in the pool and relaxing on the terrace.

I wore my tiger t shirt ready for the safari.

After lunch we set off in 2 Canters (20 seater safari vehicles) for our safari drive through Ranthambore National Park. It was an amazing experience! The park is very close to our hotel. We had a 3 hour drive around the park.

The first gate

We saw plenty of deer, many species of birds, monkeys and crocodiles. It was nearly time to leave when suddenly jeeps and Canters began racing to a spot by the lake. We could see a tiger in the distance!

Amazingly the tiger walked right up to us!

She continued past the vehicles and joined her cub.

For a while it was very quiet except for the click of camera shutters! We came back very happy.

Tomorrow we have another chance to see the tigers on a dawn safari ride!

We have been so lucky!

India – Day 9: Ranthambore

We left Agra in our coach headed for Ranthambore National Park. It was a very long journey but we broke it up by first visiting Fatehpur Sikri, the ghost city. It was built by the third Mughal emperor, in the 16th Century, when he moved from Agra, to be near a holy man who blessed him with 3 sons. When the holy man died he returned to Agra and the walled city was abandoned.

Red sandstone city
Some of our group listening to the history of the ‘Ghost City’

We continued our journey, stopping for lunch in Bharatpur.

We had lunch in a hotel
On the last leg of our long journey Raj entertained us with jokes and information about India’s religions, caste system and arranged marriages.
We travelled through bustling towns, small villages and fields
We eventually arrived at ‘Sawai Vilas’ to a warm reception, with garlands, bindis and a drink.

The Sawai Vilas are amazing. We even have an outdoor shower!

Tomorrow we have a relaxing morning followed by a safari!

India – Day 8: Agra and the Taj Mahal

We said goodbye for now, to Delhi and travelled by coach and train to Agra. The train was the Gatimaan Express, India’s fastest train. We visited Agra Fort (The Red Fort) before checking in to our hotel.

Agra Station
Agra Fort, the seat of Mughal rule until 1638
The grave of John Russell Colvin who died of cholera while a British Soldier stationed at the fort.
The entrance to our hotel, The ITC Mughal
The Pool
The hotel is surrounded by beautiful gardens

After lunch we visited the Taj Mahal, only minutes away from our hotel by coach. The Taj Mahal is a marble mausoleum built on the south bank of the Yamuna River. It was commissioned in 1632 by the Moghul Emperor Shah Jahen to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. They met as teenagers at an event at Agra Fort.

Our first view of the Taj Mahal
We entered through the South Gate
Reflections

Our visit over we went back to the hotel for dinner, as the sun began to set, exhausted but exhilarated.

Tomorrow – Ranthambore National Park!

India – Day 7: Delhi – Rickshaw Ride

Today we had a guided sightseeing tour of Delhi, starting in New Delhi, with its wide, tree lined avenues, beautifully kept roundabouts and the impressive architecture of the government buildings and embassies.

India Gate War Memorial

This was followed by a visit to the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. We had to leave our shoes outside.

Entrance to the Mosque
The Jama Masjid Mosque

Following this we took a rickshaw ride through the streets of Old Delhi. It was chaotic, and slightly nerve wracking but fascinating.

Our rickshaw driver took our photo
The mosque seen from our rickshaw ride

Safely back on the coach, we drove to see Gandhi’s memorial sight where an eternal flame burns.

We then visited Humayun’s Tomb. He was the second Mughal Emperor. It was built for him, by his wife, in 1569. Set in beautiful, symmetrical gardens, it was an oasis of calm.

Tired and hungry by now, we stopped at a hand knotted carpet emporium for a demonstration of carpet making and lunch! We had the best Samosas in all of India, according to our guide, Raj.

The carpets can take two years to make

Finally, and most poignantly, we visited the site of Mahatma Gandhi’s assassination. We were able to visit the room in which he stayed, and follow in his final footsteps.

The shrine marks the place where Gandhi was shot
Gandhi’s room
Gandhi’s dream

It has been a packed day, full of contrasts, a truly amazing experience.

Tomorrow we leave Delhi (for now) to travel by train to Agra.

Until then

Carol

India – Day 6: Return to Delhi

We left Shimla to return to Delhi, saying our goodbyes to the friendly staff and local residents.

The first part of the journey was a hair raising 4 hour drive down the mountain, through hair pin bends. I think driving a taxi is an extreme sport in this area!

Number 2 taxi, which drove us around for the 3 days we were in Shimla
We stopped for a break half way.
Local businesses were opening up.

We arrived in Chandigarh and boarded the train for Delhi.

Not allowed on the platform!
Me boarding the train
Packed lunch boxes provided for us
Views from the train ….

Eventually we arrived back in Delhi and got a coach back to the Taj Palace.

New Delhi Station
Views from the coach
The view from our hotel room

Drinks and dinner now. Tomorrow we will be having a sight seeing tour of Delhi.

India – Day 5: Shimla

Today we took an optional tour, driving in taxis further up into the mountains through the amazing Kufri countryside of Upper Shimla.

We stopped at a viewpoint in the tiny village of Fagu.

The Himalayas
The only way to travel!

We drove on to Wildflower Hall, a luxury hotel constructed on the site of the former summer residence of Lord Kitchener, where we had lunch.

There are leopards in the forests surrounding the hotel

We drove back to Shimla, a hair raising experience. The roads are narrow and winding and very busy. We passed through many villages, none of which have pavements. There were a few near misses but no one was injured!

Back in Shimla

Tomorrow we travelling back to Delhi, by taxis and train.

I think we will miss Shimla

Carol

India – Day 4: Shimla

This morning we had a very interesting talk, with slides, about the history of Shimla and the surrounding area by Raja Bhasin, who has appeared on Tv with Michael Portillo. We then got into a fleet of taxis and drove through narrow, packed streets to the Viceregal Lodge, which was the official residence of the Viceroy of India during the summer months when the British moved the seat of power to Shimla to escape the heat of Calcutta. Many British rulers have lived there including Mountbatten. It now houses the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies.

There were lots of monkeys in the grounds. Our group is a bit wary of them after some monkeys broke into one of the bedrooms while we were at breakfast and trashed the place!
We then visited some temples, with amazing views over Shimla.

After lunch in another Oberoi Hotel we walked up Mall Road. Being on the mountainside, Shimla is very hilly.

We walked to Scandal Point, a popular meeting place, so called because of a scandal caused by the elopement of a British Lady with an Indian Maharaja. We then walked back to the hotel in another sudden storm!

India – Day 3: Shimla

After a delicious Indian Buffet dinner last night we set off at 6.30am to Delhi Railway Station to catch the train to Kalka where we got on the ‘Toy Train’ which took us through the Himalayan foothills to Shimla.

4 hour trip from Delhi (25C), to Kalka
Andy and I on the Toy Train
The Toy Train climbing up the mountain to an altitude of 7500 feet
Half way to Shimla the sky darkened and there was a hail storm with thunder and lightening
We shared our coach with a friendly Indian family on holiday from Bangalore
View from the train
Shimla Station
The Oberoi Cecil Hotel

The hotel was established in 1884 by the British. Mohan Singh Oberoi started working at the hotel in the boiler room in 1922. He rose through the ranks until he was able to buy the hotel in 1944.

Tomorrow we have a talk about the history of Shimla and a guided walk.

Carol